With the buoys and surf reports showing signs of a decent south-swell and my old surf buddy Seaweed Steve calling me last night from Malibu with a head’s up, I filled up the gas tank bright and early to make the 45mi trek up to my old stomping grounds: First Point at Malibu.
I pulled up to the curb at 6:45am to snag the last parking spot on PCH next to Jack-in-the-Box – that meant that the water was already packed and that there were probably 50-60 guys all waiting for the same waves… ready to snake any and all comers…
It was overcast but warm, with glassy conditions as I ran across all 5 lanes of PCH and took my spot on the sidewalk with the regulars. Chatted with Steve Dunn, Woodsy and Snowman while we watched the clean 2-3′ sets roll in with Alan Sarlo tearing it up from the top of 1st all the way down. I even snagged a frontal spot when somebody left while we were standing there!
Just as Woodsy was about to leave, discouraged at the small size and huge crowd, a nice 5′ set rolled through and we all charged to our cars to put on our wetsuits. 🙂
Within 10 minutes I was paddling up the inside, (never have liked walking up to the top of the point), taking position in my ‘area’. I watched and waited, wondering what my chances were going to be today with this elbow-to-elbow crowd all around me.
Low and behold my spot was working when the occasional wide swinging set would roll through the inside where I was positioned. Knowing it was not quite makable from the top of the point, I paddled as riders coming from the outside yelled at me but I confidently dropped in knowing there would soon be a section of white water between us that they were not going to make. The inside was packed but maneuverable and I got some super-long rides all the way to the sand. 😛
Never managed to catch any of those 5′ sneaker sets that rolled through but let’s just say I was out for an hour, I lost track of the number of waves I caught and only got snaked twice. 🙂
It was a damn good day at the Bu… she can still put a smile on my face after 30+ years of riding her…