Surfed Out and Jet Lagged

Spent my last morning in Hawaii catching some of the new swell that was filling in before I hopped on the plane at 1pm… it was super clean out at Populars with occasional head high sets rolling in if you waited long enough. I’ll be surfing on these same waves when they hit California in 3 days but I’m going to miss the small crowds and 80 degree water when I’m back home surfing the ‘Bu with 50 other guys and wearing a wetsuit…

Arrived at LAX late last night and the first thing I did when I got on the shuttle to get my car was ask the driver how the Lakers did… what a mistake – ruined my homecoming!  😦

Anyways… it was a great 2 weeks of surfing and hanging with the family… my shoulders are worked and I’m ready to sleep in my own bed… Jack, I’ll kick your butt on the pink-pong table next year so keep practicing buddy!

I also want to note that the rash guard shirts I used worked awesome! The only thing is that I’ve got the wildest tan lines: white arms and bronze hands! Looks weird but it beats getting skin cancer on my forearms again. Remember to wear your rash guard kids… The skin you save may be your own!

Aloha – Hawaii no ka oi…

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