September South Swells!

So I heard from all the guys that I missed a good week of surf last week when I was fishing up in Mammoth. That’s OK, I thought to myself, there will be more waves……

Well, this week we have had solid back-to-back south swells since Monday!! I do have to say that we’ve also had south winds and onshore flow all week so the condiriotns haven’t been ideal. In fact Monday and Tuesday I headed down to Seal Beach early only to turn around and go back to bed. 

But yesterday and today the winds backed off enough to get in a couple of fun sessions. Still bumpy and overcast but when the sets came in it didn’t seem to matter.

Surfed at Barracuda’s Wednesday and Thursday – with yesterday being the better day, (more size and less crowd), but today was still definitley fun!

Just trunked it with a rash guard, (it was a tad chilly since it was foggy with no sun – but the water is warm), and caught my share when the shoulder to head high sets rolled in. It was a bit inconsistent with the wait being about 15-20 minutes between sets. This can actually work to keep the crowds low since most guys pull up, take a loo, then drive away when they don’t see anything. 

Small Surf

Surf is still tiny around here today – knee to maybe waist if you’re a midget… it’s pretty warm and I couldn’t concentrate so I just headed over to the Seal Beach Pier for a nice 20 minute body surf session.

Trunked it in the 70 degree water… and I gotta give a shout out to Laguna Fins – I LOVE my new Surf II fins!! The soft toe box is so much more comfy than my old Churchills.

Now I’m back to work in front of the computer… hair still wet…  let’s see if I can concentrate any better.  :-p

Supposed to head down to Newport to stay at a friend’s beach house Wednesday night. Forecast is calling for small surf all week so it looks like I’ll be bringing fins and a frisbee instead of a stick.

Oh well… guess things could be worse… I could be land locked in Ohio or some God forsaken place instead of Southern California………

Surfing Another Fun South Swell

Was up at the crack of dawn yesterday, (a Sunday!!!), to hit the new south swell that rolled in but was sadly disappointed to find howling onshore winds when I made it down to the beach.  Got up at 6am to foggy skies so I knew we had some onshore flow, but man it was super choppy! I was back in bed by 7am…

With the swell holding I tried it again this morning and imagine my happy surprise when I woke up at 6am this time to sunny skies! Flew out the door and down to the rivermouth at Seal Beach to find glassy conditions and super-fun 2-4 surf with occasional bigger sets! I threw on my trunks and rash guard, slathered on some sunblock and hit it for a hour… had a bunch of fun rides with a couple of standout waves that I will replay in my mind the rest of the day. 

Small South Swell – Seal Beach

Still on East Coast time so I was up at 6am without the alarm… took advantage by heading over to the rivermouth at Seal Beach for some small, but fun little waves on my longboard.

Water is warming up… wearing just boardshorts, a rash guard and some sunscreen – AHHHH!

It feels good to be home… Hopefully we’ll get some more south swell this week…