September South Swells!

So I heard from all the guys that I missed a good week of surf last week when I was fishing up in Mammoth. That’s OK, I thought to myself, there will be more waves……

Well, this week we have had solid back-to-back south swells since Monday!! I do have to say that we’ve also had south winds and onshore flow all week so the condiriotns haven’t been ideal. In fact Monday and Tuesday I headed down to Seal Beach early only to turn around and go back to bed. 

But yesterday and today the winds backed off enough to get in a couple of fun sessions. Still bumpy and overcast but when the sets came in it didn’t seem to matter.

Surfed at Barracuda’s Wednesday and Thursday – with yesterday being the better day, (more size and less crowd), but today was still definitley fun!

Just trunked it with a rash guard, (it was a tad chilly since it was foggy with no sun – but the water is warm), and caught my share when the shoulder to head high sets rolled in. It was a bit inconsistent with the wait being about 15-20 minutes between sets. This can actually work to keep the crowds low since most guys pull up, take a loo, then drive away when they don’t see anything.